But last month, at a black tie event for the Congressional Black Caucus Foundation in Washington, Harris needed something with a bit more glamor. And for that, she turned one of her go-to designers, LaQuan Smith. He designed a black, long-sleeve floor-length dress that was very simple except for two notable features: The dress was covered in sequins, and it featured a curved, structured neckline that highlighted Harris’s neck and shoulders.

Smith, 36, is not new to the fashion scene. The designer launched his label in 2012 and has been showing regularly at New York Fashion Week. Early on, he found supporters in women like Beyoncé, Rihanna, the Kardashians, and Lady Gaga. But as his star has risen, and as these women have gained even more cultural power, Smith has become one of the moment’s most significant designers. As an example of Smith’s ubiquity, last summer, he designed an outfit for for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour and the “Summer Renaissance” music video, while simultaneously dressing Kamala Harris to attend the Renaissance concert.

Smith is in the business of dressing powerful women. And it’s telling that some of the most influential women of our time are choosing to wear his designs at important occasions in their lives.

Breaking into Fashion

Growing up in Jamaica, Queens in New York, Smith says he always knew he wanted to be a designer. It was his grandmother that first taught him how to sew when he was in middle school. He soon began experimenting with creating patterns, and his family fully supported his creative pursuits. “I’ve always been inspired by powerful women,” he says. “The influence of my mother and my grandmother played a huge role as far as what I was exposed to and fascinated by.”

But breaking into the fashion industry as a professional designer was another matter. Today, only 7.3% of U.S. fashion designers are Black. And according to reporting from The New York Times, Black people are underrepresented across every aspect of the fashion industry, from executives at fashion brands to models on the runway. Fifteen years ago, when Smith was first trying to build a business, the stats were even more dire.

Smith applied to the Fashion Institute of Technology but did not get in. But he refused to let this setback prevent him from becoming a designer. Instead, he showed up at New York nightclubs wearing fabulous designs he had made—and spread the word that he could design similar custom outfits for other people. “It was all about word of mouth,” he says. “I was meeting so many fabulous women, and they loved what I was wearing. LaQuan Smith was a woman’s best-kept secret.”

By 2010, at the age of 21, he was ready to launch his own label, focused on couture. But in the early days, he says the hardest thing was managing the finances of his nascent business, especially without outside investors. “I had to make sure that I was shipping products on time, dealing with production issues, and finding the right manufacturing partners to maintain quality,” he says. “I learned not to break, or make compromises, when I was under pressure.”

A Staple of Fashion Week

It helped that celebrities like the Kardashians and Beyoncé gravitated to his brand early on, which put a spotlight on his designs. Soon Smith developed a very distinct aesthetic—a modern take on old-school elegance and sexiness. “I’m inspired by New York nightlife, and old Hollywood divas of film and music,” he says.

Smith has been showing at New York Fashion Week for years. While some designers have chosen to skip fashion week, including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Tom Ford, Smith believes it is worth the time, effort, and money. “New York Fashion Week is part of history, it’s part of my legacy,” he says. “A lot of my clients are excited about seeing my show.”

This year, his collaborated with Samsung to create several pieces inspired by the tech company’s new Galaxy Ring, which tracks your biometrics. He created a chartreuse colored transparent robe and nightdress for women, along with pants for men. The pieces, which explore the concept of a “Lucid Dream,” play with the idea of sleep, which is one of the things the Ring tracks. “A corporate partnership is a great help, especially if it feels organic,” he says. “I believe technology and creativity go hand in hand, and it’s crucial for pushing the boundaries of fashion.”

But the real heart of the current collection is a series of body-hugging column gowns. (Harris’s recent black gown is a variation on this theme.) One features purple sequin fabric, with a halter neck and an entirely exposed back; the other, made of red sequin fabric, has large cutouts on the front and the back. There’s also a series of sheer mesh dresses, with elegant satin trims. And two mini dresses made of patent leather. “I love designing things that have a very sensual and provocative element to it,” he says. “The ultimate inspiration is an unapologetically glamorous woman and the way she carries herself.”

On Dressing Beyoncé and Kamala Harris

Smith’s approach has resonated with stars like Beyoncé, who often wears outfits that are both fierce and sensual. In her “Summer Renaissance” music video, for instance, she wore a black LaQuan Smith column dress with asymmetrical cutouts at the bust and midriff. The simple dress was the perfect backdrop for various pieces of jewelry from Tiffany & Co, reflecting Beyoncé’s new partnership with the jeweler.