What’s driving beauty innovation today? Scientific discovery

April 08, 2024

What’s driving beauty innovation today? Scientific discovery

Seeking new, sustainable ingredients is paramount for today’s top beauty and personal care brands.

BY Heidi Mitchell

Beauty companies aren’t given enough credit for being at the forefront of scientific breakthroughs. Biotech has been seeping over to skincare and makeup for a few years, but, according to Anna Keller, senior beauty and personal care analyst at Mintel, a few macro trends are now propelling biotech’s march into the beauty category. They include providing alternatives to controversial animal-derived ingredients, allowing for ingredient manufacturing to be done under strict quality standards to maximize ingredient safety and efficacy, and reducing environmental impact by finding scalable, plant- or lab-derived alternatives to harmful chemicals, pesticides, and processes. The unpredictability of the supply chain has also jolted the industry to source effective ingredients from unexpected places. The result is that the beauty industry is galvanized around one word: discovery. You can see how this manifests in a variety of ways in Fast Company‘s full list of the most innovative companies in beauty.

Fortunately, Americans are opening up to the idea of lab-grown materials that deliver youthful results. According to a recent poll by Mintel, consumer sentiment around lab-grown ingredients is now largely positive, with 62% of personal care buyers in the U.S. interested in lab-engineered ingredients and 20% willing to pay more for such products. And many of the most effective new ingredients grew out of other research. “Cross-categorical innovation and inspiration is key for a sustainable future of the beauty and personal care (BPC) category,” says Keller. “This trend is heavily influenced by consumer interest in doctor-recommended treatments, post-surgery care, and the increased medicalization of BPC products.”

B.A.I. Biosciences grew out of MIT-trained chemical engineer Sophie Bai’s drive to find a cure for various cancers. The former Bain and Boston Consulting Group consultant worked with Bob Langer, cofounder of Moderna, to find new delivery systems for cancer therapies, and ultimately invented a new molecule that provides the highest protection on the market against UVA, UVB, and visible light while somehow also scavenging for harmful cells on the skin. On the hunt for cancer cures, Bai found a way to protect against skin cancer and reverse the signs of sun-related aging. No surgery or lasers required.

OneSkin’s PhD founders took a scientist’s approach to unlocking the body’s potential to reverse aging. The four female doctors tested thousands of amino acid chains in an attempt to find a way to “switch off” dead cells so they don’t take surrounding cells down with them. They discovered the first senescence-blocking peptide, which extends skin longevity. Because we all want to live forever, but look like we’re 40 when we’re 80. 


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Heidi Mitchell is a frequent contributor to Fast Company, covering wellness, beauty, and travel. After two decades as a staff editor and writer for varied publications ranging from Rolling Stone to Town & Country, Heidi began a freelance career 


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